Instructions

Instructions, Papercraft (.pdo . .jpg), Harley-Davidson Model 7A (1911) (.) (19)

[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
HARLEY-DAVIDSON
Model 7A (1911)
PAPER MODEL
Alan Grayer 2012
harley@histon.cjb.net
Scale 1:7
Harley-Davidson belt drive singles.
The Model
In 1901 William Harley and Arthur Davidson
started work on a motorised bicycle using a small
(116cc) engine and a pedal-cycle frame. This was
completed by 1903, but turned out to be greatly
underpowered, and as a result not a success. The
following year they, together with Arthur's brothers
Walter and William, had a new design. This had a
frame with an S-shaped front tube, forming a
circular space for a much larger engine, but
otherwise was still very much a bicycle with a
motor attached. Production continued until 1908
with minor improvements but no major change in
appearance.
This is based on the 1911 Model 7A, with
magneto ignition and 28" (overall) wheels. The
design is taken from some of the many
photographs to be found on the WWW, and is
inevitably somewhat speculative in places. A
particular problem is that almost all of the
photographs are of restored examples, and they
differ from each other in detail quite significantly,
especially in the painting scheme. It would be
best considered as a model of a possible
restoration, where a good attempt at authenticity
has been made, but where some inaccuracies are
to be expected.
In 1909 a new model appeared showing marked
changes. The frame was strengthened by adding
a second horizontal top tube, and new fuel and oil
tanks were fitted surrounding the two tubes and
fitted front and rear to the shape of the opening.
Previously the tanks were of rather arbitrary
shape and size, and strapped on in a rather ad
hoc way. This was beginning to look like a
purpose-built motorcycle.
The model is to a scale of 1:7 and will measure
approximately 300mm x 80mm x 150mm (12" x 3"
x 6"). It is designed for printing on thin card
0.2mm thick, typically corresponding to a paper
weight of 160gsm. The PDF file is for A4 paper
size, but with two exceptions all the parts are
within a 7.5" x 10" rectangle, so should print
comfortably on US Letter size paper. The
exceptions are the two wheel rims on pages E1
and E3, which are marginally longer than 10", but
are still unlikely to cause problems.
Two changes occurred in 1911. The S shaped
front tube was replaced by a straight one. As a
result, it met the head tube at a steeper angle,
which meant that the head tube had to be moved
forward slightly to make room, increasing the
wheelbase correspondingly. Unfortunately the
shape of the tanks was not changed, so they no
longer fitted the frame angles neatly. The engine
was given a new cylinder head with vertical radial
cooling fins - previously the horizontal fins of the
cylinder were continued over the head as well.
The parts file is divided into logical, identified by
the letters A-G. Within each section the parts are
numbered sequentially from 1, roughly in the
order they appear on the sheets. The instructions
are similarly divided into sections. In each section
of instructions parts for that section are identified
just by their number; reference to parts from other
sections are preceded by their section letter.
Where a part number is followed by * the part
should be laminated on thicker card, to give a
total thickness of 1mm; where they are followed
by ** they should be laminated to thicker material
- this is always mentioned in the textual
instructions.
In 1912 a new saddle mounting was introduced -
the "Ful-Floteing" seat. Instead of being clamped
rigidly in the top of the rear tube of the frame, the
saddle tube was allowed to slide, constrained by
springs inside the rear tube. In order to allow this
movement, the rear tube had to be cut down by
several inches, and the rear third of the tanks and
top tube were sloped down to match. At the same
time, the front of the tanks was redesigned to fit
the new front geometry. This year also saw the
first chain drive, fitted to the V-twin version
together with a rear-wheel clutch. Over the next
three years chain drive was introduced on more
models, and by 1915 belt-driven models had been
phased out altogether.
This kit is not intended for beginners. The
instructions identify the parts and give a suitable
assembly sequence, but do not describe detailed
construction techniques. It is made available free
of charge for private non-commercial use. You
are welcome to distribute it unchanged to others,
and to make modifications for personal use.
- 1 -
A. Frame
side up inside, to form a groove for the middle
tube. Pass the top tube through the holes in the
tank, and fit this down over the middle tube. Glue
the ends of the top tube to the head and down
tubes at the front, and to the rear tube. Glue the
strengthening webs 20, 21 and 22 in the angles
formed by the head, top and down tubes.
Roll the top tube 2 and add the sleeves 1 and 3
where marked. Do the same for the middle tube
(4, 5 and 6), down tube (7 and 8) and rear tube
(12, 13, 14 and 15). Roll the bottom tube 10,
remove the cutouts and form the curved section.
Glue the ends of the engine mounting brackets 9
and 11 back-to back, forming them around the
bottom tube, but not yet gluing them. Make rolled
connectors to fit half inside each end of the
bottom tube, and half inside the down and rear
tubes Glue these all together, then place the
Make up the pedal tube 23, 24 and 25 and the
brace 26 and fit where marked to the rear tube.
The long projection of the pedal tube is to the left
side, and the seam goes at the bottom. Make up
the seat box 54 and fit to the rear tube and pedal
engine brackets over the joins. Glue the ends of
the middle tube to the markings on the down and
rear tubes.
brace.
Roll the left chain stay 29, and bend to the shape
shown in the diagram. Add the front bush 28 and
27 and the rear capping 30 and 31. The
semicircular portions of 30 and 31 are glued back-
to-back, and the egg-shaped halves cap the V-
shaped end of the chain stay. Repeat for the left
rear stay (32-36), right rear stay (42-46) and right
chain stay (48-52). Make up the stay bracket (38,
39 and 40) and fit to the rear tube just above the
seat box. Roll the crosspiece 41, then mount all
the stays to the rear tube.
Roll the head tube, and add the bearing rings 16
and 17 to the top, and 18 to the bottom, after
laminating these to card to a thickness of 1mm.
Glue the head tube to the down tube, using the
diagram to get the angle correct.
Construct the tank 53. Before cutting out, use the
guide lines to score lightly across the sides, front
and rear, to allow them to taper in. Cut out the
rectangles marked with a red X, then form the
shape, tucking the final rectangular panel on each
- 2 -
L
R
L
R
Chain
Stays
Rear
Stays
Form the cylinder head core 27 and 28 and glue
to the top fin. Make the top 29 and 30, and glue
on part 27. Add the valve chamber head core 31
and 32, flange 33 and 34 and inlet valve cover 35
and 36. Add the head fins 37-42, 45-54 and 57-60
around the valve chamber head, as shown in the
diagram. The radiused corner of each fin is the
top outside corner.
Laminate and cut out the wheel bearers 37 and
47 and the chain 72, and fit to the frame,
remembering to thread the right chain stay
through the hole in the chain before fitting the
right wheel bearer.
68
The gas and oil fillers (55, 56 and 63, 64) and
pumps (57-62 and 65-71) can be made up now,
but are best not fitted to the tank until the end of
construction.
B. Engine
75
61
54
Start with the cooling fin stack. Glue 26 to the
underside of 12 (this will form a plug to locate the
lower cylinder skin 76). Glue 25 on top of 12, then
11 on top of 25, lining up the cutouts on 11 and
12. Continue with all the other layers, until the
stack is complete with part 1 on top. When fitting
parts 1-5, the right-hand edges of the smaller
circles should line up vertically - the left-hand
edges slope. The stack should match the height
as shown in the diagram, though there is no harm
in its being a little short. If it is a small amount too
tall, it can be squeezed in a vice to get it right.
45
50
44
56
43
42
57
60
37
Not to scale
Fit the spark plug boss 44 between fins 42 and
45, and glue the short fin 43 on top. Make up the
carburettor mounting 55 and 56, and fit between
fins 54 and 57. Fit the cylinder head fins 61-75
(these are all the same). Both top corners are
radiused - the larger radius goes to the outside.
Roll the cylinder base 76, and fit over the plug 26.
Roll the exhaust stub 77, valve spring 78 and
valve stem 79. Fit the valve spring into the cutouts
in fins 7-12, with its seam towards the cylinder
axis, and top touching the underside of fin 6. Glue
the exhaust stub centrally underneath the small
circle of fin 6. Slide the valve stem 79 inside the
spring 78, but do not glue.
- 3 -
cable connector 124 and 125 to the top. Roll up
the contact box 127 around the former 128, and
glue to the magneto face opposite to the ignition
cable connector. Fit the cover 129 over it, with the
rolled-up fixing post between the projection and
the top right both head on the magneto body. Roll
up the drive cover and fit on the opposite side of
the magneto. Laminate the mounting bracket 132
to card, and glue the underside 133 to the back.
Fit to the magneto body. Form the D-shaped
magnet by taping the inner layer 136 coloured-
side in to a suitable former. Then laminate the
middle and outer layers 135 and 134, trim and fit
to the sides of the magneto. Glue the completed
magneto to the rear of the drive 98.
Optionally glue the cylinder bolt heads 81-84 over
the markings on the flange 80, then glue the
completed cylinder in the centre.
Laminate 85 and 86 to card, glue 87 to the back
of 86 and cut out. Glue back-to-back. Roll 89 and
90, and use 88 and 90 as formers to make them
circular. The seam of 89 should line up with the
small mark at the top of 88, and similarly with 91
and 90. Glue 88 and 89 to 85 again lining up the
seam with the top marking, and glue 90 and 91 to
86. Make up the cam cover 94 with 95 as a
former, and glue to 88, lining up the seam with the
bottom marking on 88. Fold up and assemble the
cylinder mount 92 and glue to the top of the
crankcase assembly. Place the front panel 93
over 92 and 88, resting on the cam cover 94.
Mount the engine in the frame, centrally located in
the curve of the bottom tube and attaching the
lugs on the flange 86 to the mounting brackets A9
and A10.
Glue the magneto drive cover 96 over 97, and
glue 98 to the back. Then put this on the cam
cover 94, lining up the mark at the bottom of 98
with the seam. Glue the cylinder on top of the
mount 92, and glue the bottom of the exhaust
valve stem 79 to the top of the cam cover 94.
Construct the muffler 138-140. The seam in 139
will go at the top, and should be lined up with the
mark on the front end 140. Add the inlet trunk 141
and outlet 137 where marked. Make up the inlet
142 and 143, and fit on to the end of 141. Blacken
the reverse side of 144, and glue it to the capped
end of the inlet. Make up the exhaust pipe,
shaping it according the the diagram, and fit
between the engine and muffler.
Start the carburettor by rolling the main body 99,
then adding sleeves 100 and then 101 at the rear
end and 102 at the front. Glue the spacers 103 to
106 over the seam: 106 first between 100 and
102, then 105 over the top, butted up against
sleeve 101, and then 103 and 104, with the front
ends lined up with the front end of 105. Make up
the float chamber 109, forming the petals into a
hemisphere underneath. Fit the top 108 and the
support 110 and 111. Make up the air intake 114,
blackening the reverse side first. Glue 105 and
106 back-to-back, and fit to the forward end of
114, with 116 facing outward. Make the centre
post 112 and 113, and glue to the middle of 115.
Fit the intake to the rear end of the carburettor
body 99. Roll the throttle lever support 120, add
the lever 119 and the top rod 117 and 118. fix
these to the top of part 99. Glue the carburettor to
its mounting on the engine, and make up the
bracket 117 and position it between the float
chamber support 110 and the cylinder cooling
fins.
Defer adding the various pipes and cables 146-
154 until more of the model is completed.
Roll the spark plug pieces 121 and 122, then slide
121 inside 122 and glue to the boss on the
cylinder head.
C. Front Forks
Roll the left main fork top section 2, add the bush
6 to the top, and the spring support 7 to the
middle. The spring support should angle 45
Fold the magneto body 123 into a box, then wrap
the front/rear panel 126 around it. Add the ignition
- 4 -
[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]