Instructions, Model Kartonowy
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'PHVKE\'DUNVDEHU
The model is rather hard one, so if You never tried a paper model before, I recommend you visit
, and choose something else for starters. Also, if you don’t succeed, don’t give up,
you can always print out the needed part again (I did it two times).
Anyway, good luck, and have fun, because that is the most important, even more important than the final effect.
Materials needed:
• Bristol (thick paper)
• millimeter thick cardboard
• 2 millimeters thick cardboard
• A sharp knife or scalpel (for cutting edges)
• Some good glue –personally I prefer polyurethane glue, also you can use wood adhesive it will hold paper very
good too, maybe even better than paper glue. I wouldn’t recommend any glue sticks, so use them at your own
risk, and don’t cry when the model falls apart :P
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Sand-paper
Parts marked with * should be sticked on 1 mm (millimeter) thick cardboard.
Parts marked with ** should be sticked on 2mm thick cardboard.
When there two symmetrical parts at both sides of the model, left one (when looking at the rear side of model) is
marked with
l
, while the right one is marked with
r
.
Some Basics:
When you need to fold the part so it is convex ( -------- ), make a shallow cut with the knife along the line, so that
paper looks like that:
Direction of folding
Then it will easily fold. You have too look out not to cut the part apart however. After a short training You’ll
figure out the best depth of the cut.
When you need to fold the part so that it is concave ( ) , you can either cut it at the other side, which is
harder to do, because you don’t see lines, or make a dent along the line, for example with a dry pen, so that the
paper looks like that:
Direction of folding
When You want to achieve cylindrical shape, draw the part across the edge of a table, as shown on the picture:
Star-like and comb-like parts, as shown bellow form spherical shapes:
You need to bend their “arms” so they are convex, preferably with method described above, and then glue their
edges together. I recommend you cut off all their flaps before doing so.
Sometimes it is best to remove flaps and make Your own from a separate piece of paper. Why?
The part, especially a flat one or a side of cylinder glued with “stock” flap looks like this:
While , if You make Your own flap You can achieve a flat even surface like this:
This way You’ll have a way better effect.
Also one of the first rules in this business is: before You apply glue, make sure You won’t regret it – always check
if the part fits correctly, if the skeleton bellow it doesn’t need some sandpaper work, etc.
One more thing: be creative – model’s author isn’t always right, he makes mistakes, so if You think that some
things could be done other way, maybe easier, they probably can, so don’t be afraid to modify the model. For
example, I’ve been making paper models for about eight years now, and I rarely follow instructions in details. I
developed my own habits and ways of doing things, and always modify the original concept, so it’s easier to make
for me, maybe looks better, or I just do it for fun.
Model dimensions (in millimeters):
165
260
370
Difficulty rating (Deimos’ scale):
5/10
Important!
Before you print your model, note that pages 1 to 10 should be printed on normal thin paper,
and then some parts from them should be sticked on thick cardboard.
Okay, let’s begin with cutting out parts number
S1
,
S2
,
S3
,
S4L
and
S4U
, in other words, all pages 1, 2 and 3. All
of these parts, except number
S3
should be sticked on 1mm cardboard. Part
S3
should be reinforced with 2mm
cardboard (or two layers of 1mm cardboard)
Tip: before pasting actual parts on cardboard, try to stick a big piece of paper on it. It may turn out that
cardboard will bend. If so, you should change your glue.
After the glue dries, cut out all parts, and assemble them as shown on pictures:
S4U
S3
S2
S1
S4L
Note that You glue only one part
S2
(of two) to skeleton at this point.
Now cut out all parts marked as
S5
from pages 6 to 10. They are marked with *, so reinforce them with 1 mm
cardboard (it can be thinner in this case). The tricky part is to cut them out without damaging them. Scissors won’t
do the trick here. I recommend You use a scalpel, or a sharp knife to cut the outer edges, and maybe the inner edge
too (You have to experiment here)
Tip: If you find it hard to cut out a hole in cardboard-reinforced part, try making perforating the inner edge with a
needle (the holes have to be very close to each other). Now it’s just a matter of a slight push. Edges may require
additional working with sandpaper however.
Roll part
5a
around
S5
.
S5
should be at both front and rear sides of element. Now glue colored parts
5b
to both
sides of it.
When You do this, it ‘s time to find
S6
and S
6a
.
S6
is reinforced with cardboard, and will be cylinder’s top and
bottom lids.
S6a
is on bristol and should be rolled around
S6a
. Make sure that cylinder fits tightly into holes in
parts
S1
and
S5
. These part will hold wings in position, so if they are too lose, wings will keep opening even if
You don’t want them to.
Assembly it all as shown bellow:
S6
S2
S5
Now, that You made hull skeleton, it’s time to wrap it with part
1
(p. 11). White boxes in this part should be cut
out – this is where the wing joints go. Adjust the entire part to them. Note the part should reach the end of
horizontal surface on parts
S1
and
S2
. If it doesn’t, use the sandpaper.
When that is done, put the top in place (part
2
, page 12). Keep in mind that the darker boxes on its sides mark
front. Make sure that part
2
is thoroughly glued to
S4U
– it has to hold the upper wing in vertical position.
One more thing: on pictures parts are printed on both sides to make them easier to identify.
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