Interior painting, Po angielsku
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INTERIOR PAINTING
No special skills are needed in order to paint and decorate
successfully - attention to detail is the key to it all.
Even when working just a couple of feet off the floor, always
use a strong stepladder - never stand on a chair or other
'hop-up'. Use protective clothing when necessary.
Painting is a cheap and easy way to give your home a new
look.
To get the best results when painting, choose good materials
and equipment; keep brushes and other tools clean and in
good condition.
Never skimp on preparation work or you'll be disappointed
with the finished results. Take time to rub down surfaces
properly and fill cracks and holes neatly. Only start painting
when surfaces are smooth, clean and dry.
2
- Preparing a room
Clear as much furniture from the room as possible.
Whatever has to remain should be gathered in the middle of
the floor. Vacuum the room thoroughly. Use dustsheets to
cover furniture and floor coverings.
Remove all fixtures and fittings from walls and doors. In the
long run, it is far quicker to do this rather than to try and
paint around them, which leads to paint runs and smudging
on the fitting itself. With electrical fittings, turn off the power
before loosening switches, ceiling roses, etc.
Mask off window-panes and woodwork using masking tape,
newspaper and polythene dustsheets.
3
- Preparing walls and ceilings
If there are any damp patches on walls and ceilings, find out
the cause and remedy it first. There's no point in trying to
paint over dampness, because it will probably cause the
paint to flake off quickly and the damp patch will seep
through again anyway. When the damp patch has dried, it
should be primed with a damp seal. Watermarks will seep
through even several coats of emulsion.
Use sugar soap or mild detergent and a large decorator's
sponge to wash down all surfaces, starting with the ceiling.
Rinse thoroughly, but do not saturate the surfaces. Allow to
dry before painting. Make sure that electrical fittings are
protected from water. Plaster surfaces tarnished by nicotine
stains need to be coated with a stain block or nicotine block
before painting.
In older houses, you can still find walls and ceilings coated
with distemper, and paint will not adhere to this. You can tell
if this is the case, because the powdery coating will come off
when you wash down the surface. Distemper is best
removed. Wet the distemper thoroughly with water and
remove with a nylon-scouring pad, or for thicker layers,
scrape off as much of it as possible. Use a stabilising
solution over the area to bind any last traces of distemper.
Ceiling paper that is sound and well adhered can remain and
be painted. Any loose edges can be stuck back with
wallpaper adhesive or overlap adhesive and allowed to dry
before painting. Loose or bubbled paper has to be stripped
off. Remember that paper may have been applied to a wall
or ceiling to hide minor cracks that are superficial but
unsightly. If necessary, you may need to re-paper.
4
- Cracks and holes
Use interior filler to fill any
small cracks and holes in
plaster. Use a flexible filling
knife to force the filler into
the hole (1).
Leave the filler slightly proud
of the surface, allow it to dry,
then rub it smooth with dry
sandpaper wrapped aroun
wooden block (2). You may
need to repeat the process in
some areas for a really
smooth finish.
d a
Larger holes and cracks are more economically filled with
deep-repair filler, or a plaster filler. Check manufacturer's
instructions for use - a larger crack may have to be filled in
a couple of stages. Any loose plaster should be chipped off
first. Where a surface is sound but covered with a network of
crazed superficial cracks, you can use a textured flexible
paint, or first hang lining paper. Alternatively, use a textured
wallcovering that is specifically made to be overpainted and
ideal for uneven walls.
5
- Preparing woodwork
If existing paintwork is in a sound condition, there is no
need to strip it off - it will make a good base for the new
paint. The only exception is where a thick coat of paint is
causing windows or doors to jam.
If the paint is to remain, then it should be washed down with
sugar soap and water to remove all traces of dust, grease
and stains. Rinse thoroughly.
Rub down the surface with
medium-grade sandpaper, or
an orbital sander fitted with a
medium-grade sanding she
(3). This roughens the
surface, giving a good key fo
the new paint to adhere to.
Always wear a facemask
when sanding (please refer to
the section 'Lead in Pain
et
r
t').
Finally, wipe over the surface with a lint-free rag moistened
with white spirit. Use a pointed stick to get the rag into
corners where dust can be trapped - it may be picked up on
the brush and spread across the surface to leave a pimply
effect on the dried paintwork. Don't forget to clean out
keyholes and the top edges of doors where dirt and dust can
be picked up on the brush.
Paintwork that has the odd chip or crack need not be
stripped off. Fill any chips and holes with interior filler or a
wood filler and sand it flush with the surface when the filler
has dried.
If the paintwork is in bad
condition and has lots of
cracks and flaking areas, th
it is best to strip it off back to
en
bare wood. You can strip
paint by dry sanding, with a
chemical paint stripper
with a heat gun (4). Dry
sanding with sandpaper
recommended for
other than the smallest area,
and even then it is advisable
to wear a facemask. Chemical
stripper, in the form o
pastes, gels and liquids, is best where you suspect that the
old paint may have contained lead. See the section 'L
or
is not
anything
f
ead in
paint' for details. However, it is a much lengthier process
than using heat, and more costly. A hot-air gun melts the
thickest paint coat so that it can be scraped off with a shave
hook. It is best to use a chemical stripper near to windows
where heat can crack the glass. Bare wood should be rubbe
down with medium sandpaper or an electric sander.
d
B
treated with knotting. This prevents the resin seeping out
and staining the paintwork. To seal the surface, use a wood
primer before undercoating and then painting your surface.
6
ike paint, there is no need to s
L
needs to come off then remove it just like paintwork. Fil
holes and cracks with woodfiller, sand down surfaces lightly,
wipe over with white spirit and then start varnishing.
trip sound varnish. If it
l any
7
ron or steel windows can ru
I
traces need to be removed. Small patches can be treated
with emery cloth or wire wool, but larger areas need wire
brushing, either with a hand-held brush or a wire cup brush
fitted to an electric drill. Always wear a facemask and safety
goggles.
R
suitable for metal, then apply a coat of metal primer as
st, and if this is happening all
ust can reform overnight, so fill any holes with a filler
soon
as possible. Aluminium just needs to be washed with sugar
soap and rubbed down with medium-grade sandpaper. There
are various primers available, for both ferrous and non-
ferrous metals.
are plaster needs to be sealed before app
B
paint. This can be done with a plaster sealer, dilute PVA
sealer, or a diluted coat of emulsion. You do not need to
prime a surface that has been painted previously, except
areas you have had to fill and repair.
lying emulsion
the
A
work session. If you take a break and the paint dries, a pain
line will show where you stopped and restarted.
t
are wood will need treating before painting. Knots must be
- Preparing varnish
- Preparing metal
8 - Painting ceilings and walls
lways plan to decorate a ceiling or a complete wall in one
ting at the main
ork back into
the room (5 &
makes it easier to
what you are doing.
and around
6). This
see
If using a roller, first paint a n
along all edges and into corne
reach; this is called cutting in
pen and paint applied with ev
arrow band, using a brush,
rs where the roller won't
. Brushes are best held like a
en strokes.
Do not dip your brush too far into the paint, a third of the
brushes bristles is enough. Make sure you feather the edges
paint so you do not leave a hard edge that is difficult
blend and cover.
Tip some paint into the well of the roller tray and load the
roller by dipping and rolling it in the pai
backwards an
a
Now apply the paint with the roller in a zigzag motion
the surface and work systematically across th
the
d
over
e room. Paint
ceiling in 600mm (2ft) bands, and on walls work
wnwards from the top to the skirting.
P
to join up wet edges.
Always use a primer on bare wood first to help seal the
surface. Where a surface has already been painted, use t
undercoat colour recommended by the manufacturers of
your chosen gloss or satin paint. In some cases it might
require a second undercoat to completely obliterate the old
paint. It is important that you do this or the colour will show
through the new coat of paint. When each coat has dried
sand down lightly with m
w
a
he
,
edium-grade sandpaper and wipe
ith a lint-free cloth moistened with white spirit, before
pplying the next coat.
Start pain
window and w
of the
t
nt and running it
d forwards on the slope of the tray, completely
d evenly covering the roller sleeve.
aint pads are also used in zigzag directions, working quickly
9 - Painting woodwork
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